Fundamental makeup brushes

The previous post (where I talked about the eyeliner brush that changed my life) got me thinking about brushes. If you’ve ever seen a makeup artist operate, you know that they can use 20 different brushes while doing one person’s makeup. It makes you wonder, “Do I really need all that?”. The answer is, probably not.

What are the basic brushes you should have in your set, if you’re trying to create a natural no makeup look? Here’s my list of “can’t imagine living without them” brushes. Depending on the brand they’ll have slightly different names but you’ll be able to recognize them nonetheless:

1. Large fluffy powder brush

Honestly, you can’t apply powder in a natural way without a brush like this. This one is an absolute must have. Use it to set your makeup with a little powder, to apply bronzer or powder blush (I like to do that with a big brush) and to give a good once over blending when you’re done. It’s the ultimate multi-tasking brush.

2. Medium sized eyeshadow brush

When I first applied eyeshadow with a decent brush, I knew I’d never go back. This brush allows you to apply your allover color and it is small enough to that it will work on the crease as well. I also use it to blend all eyeshadow colors together and eliminate any hard edges. I must have another 5 eyeshadow brushes - different sizes, shapes, tightness of bristles - but I use this one 90% of the time.

3. Pointy eyeliner brush (bonus points if double-sided with smudge brush on other side)

It was the subject of a recent post and it was the reason I started thinking about basic brushes in the first place. I love it because it turns my entire eyeshadow collection into eyeliners. I can use it dry or wet, I can draw anything detailed, I can smudge pencil eyeliner, I can use it for gel eyeliner… Endless possibilities.

Those 3 brushes are my essentials, come rain or shine, at home or on the road, whatever style of makeup I’m wearing. I’ve got an additional 3 that depend on day, need, mood and product.

4. Mineral foundation brush

If I happen to apply mineral foundation rather than a tinted moisturizer, I’m going to need one of these. They’re sturdier than a fluffy powder brush and they are much better at achieving the buffing effect needed.

5. Liquid foundation brush (synthetic bristles)

Definitely less essential … I don’t *need* a foundation brush but I admit it achieves a beautiful effect and it’s easy to use. I wouldn’t carry it with me if I were traveling, I’d just use my fingers. Choose a synthetic one that isn’t porous, picks up the right amount of product and is easy to clean.

6. Small concealer brush (synthetic bristles)

I’ve seen two essential styles for concealer brushes – one is a larger brush meant to create a more “airbrushed” result and another one is a small pointy brush meant to reach inner corners of eyes and cover pimples or other imperfections very carefully. While I’m all about the airbrush, I find that I achieve that well enough with my fingers, so I rely on my concealer brush for detail work. Again, I could live without this on a desert island or most occasions, really. : )

1 to 6, left to right (just noticed that all my brushes are from different brands!)

What are the brushes you can’t live without??

One brush = endless eyeliner options - pic

I took this pic right after I wrote the previous post but never got around to sharing it.

So here's the effect I achieved using the Stila's wondeful brush and the darker shade of L'Oréal's HIP concentrated shadow duo in Dynamic - a beautiful metallic antique gold and a shimmery dark olive bronze. It doesn't really qualify as a forgotten eyeshadow because I actually use it a lot.

I got my bonus points by smudging it and I achieved a very natural look with a just a hint of color. I left my lashes bare so the eyeliner effect was clearer in this photo, but would normally have added mascara.

One brush = endless eyeliner options

While my goal is to pretend that I’m not wearing any makeup and just look naturally polished, eyeliner is my weakness and the only place where I get a little “showy”. We’ve established that in my previous three posts about different levels of eyeliner intensity, especially in that last one (read all about it here).

Eyeliner pencils are great but my eyeliner philosophy was greatly augmented when I discovered this magic brush – Stila #28 Smudge Pot Brush. On one end it’s a pointy (rather than flat) eyeliner brush and on the other end it’s a tightly packed smudge brush.

Though it was designed to be worn with Stila’s Smudge Pots (and I’ll surely write a post about them at some point), the really interesting thing is that you can use it to turn just about any eyeshadow into gorgeous, custom eyeliner!

Start slow and easy and pick up any basic old eyeshadow that you haven’t used in a while. Maybe it’s a basic brown that you’re not crazy about because it doesn’t go on evenly or a forest green that you bought after reading about it in a magazine, but can’t imagine wearing it all over your lid. Find it and let's get started!

Now dampen the pointy side slightly with tap water, wiggle it in the eyeshadow a couple of times and carefully draw a line as close to your eyelashes as possible. Pick up more eyeshadow if needed until you’ve completed both eyes. If you are worried that you’re not enough of an “artiste” to make this work, let it go. It’s honestly super easy and forgiving, nothing like liquid eyeliner.

You can leave it at that or turn the brush around and use the other side to slightly smudge the line. When you’re done admire your work and then go unearth all the forgotten eye shadows you can think of – you have just breathed new life into your eyeliner options!

  XQ2RU7SDRR6S

Eyeliner pencil – intensity 3

Well, once we go into eyeliner intensity 3 we are straying a little from our “no makeup look” ideals, but it’s worth it. Check intensity 1 and 2 for more natural styles and stick around for the heightened and smokin’ version of just eyeliner, as we line the inner rim of eye. I like this slightly disheveled and bohemian approach to eyeliner and enjoy sporting it in the evenings and even during the day on the weekends.

Start by adding concealer to dark circles and to the lid itself. Use something like bareMinerals Well Rested (check out my post about it here) or a creamier concealer applied with a brush and set with a little bit of powder. 

Now that the canvas is ready, take a kohl eyeliner such as Lancôme’sLe Crayon Khol in Brun or Urban Decay's 24/7 Glide-On Eye Pencil in Zero (a really inky and black liner) and sharpen it slightly so that you expose untouched product. Using your finger pull your lower lid down and show the inside rim. Line the inside rim of your eyes, both on the bottom rim and upper rim. Blink a few times and repeat the lining process.

For extra bonus run the pencil over the roots of lower lashes, working it in carefully. Do the same at the roots of the upper lashes, working from the top. Once you’re done, take a q-tip and smudge any excess around the roots of the lashes.

Add mascara and go show off this smoldering look!

Some people express concern over lining the inside of the eye – is it safe? Run a search online and you’ll find pros and cons. I’ve done it all my life, and though I’m a contact lenses wearer, I’ve never had any trouble. Here are a few tips that have helped me stay that way. Wash your hands with soap. Then sharpen your eyeliner slightly to expose new, clean surface. Don’t share eyeliners and discard if yours comes in contact with any kind of eye infection. Lastly, be careful when applying so you don’t accidentally scratch your eye (this is really not the makeup technique for a moving car…). If you wear contact lenses, you may notice a small amount of product accumulating on the edges of the lens. Remove and clean if it feels uncomfortable, and always clean extra well when you take them off at the end of the day.

Tamed baby hairs

Maybe your hairline is super clean and there is an easy transition from forehead to normal hair. Maybe your baby hairs are the cute kind, where you pull your hair into a ponytail and have just a few even wisps. If you belong to the above categories, skip this post.

If you have ever struggled with your hairline, keep on reading!

In my case I have unruly baby hairs that stick out in every direction. They also commit a crime that the rest of my hair doesn’t dare! They… frizz. If it’s rainy or very humid, my baby hairs rebel and frizz, which makes me look (and feel) unpolished and a little frazzled. 

While hairlines are mostly unimportant, a frizzy hairline looks really messy even if you can’t single out what’s wrong. Correct it and it becomes unnoticeable again, like it was meant to be in the first place.

If you’ve ever tried to fight this problem with hair products, you’ve probably also found that it’s not easy to control. Hairspray on a toothbrush makes baby hairs stiff, while serum turns them greasy and slick. But there’s a fairly simple solution. Take the same product we used to tame unruly brows, the cheap clear mascara, and run the brush lightly through your baby hairs until they are coated and arranged in a nice way. Clear mascara dries quickly, stays put, adds no gloss or crunch, and does the job.

Perfecting skin – level 2

Skin is of supreme importance to the no makeup look. Like I discussed in the level 1 post of this series, our goals are to achieve a more even tone, less noticeable pores and a finish with a slight glow to it. In level 2 we’re looking for a little more coverage, which will help with the correction of any flaws. The type of product we will talk about is mineral makeup.

Much like millions of women, I am a fan of bareMinerals. When I first heard about it a few years ago I thought it was a marketing gimmick, just a new name for powder makeup, loose instead of pressed into a compact. Then I picked up a small amount of the stuff, rubbed between my fingers and was surprised by the almost creamy, silky texture. I remain a believer to this day.

You can visit their website to choose the right color for you. Stick with the original formula rather than the matte formula to better achieve the luminous finish.

Application is a cinch. Use one of their brushes – I prefer the Full Flawless Face brush – to pick up a small amount of product (less than a penny-sized amount of powder) that you’ve tapped onto the lid of the foundation pot. Swirl the brush around the lid to spread the powder evenly into the brush. Then use the brush to buff your skin using light round motions. There is really no way to go wrong with this technique. Start with just a little bit, take your time with buffing and add more if you feel it’s needed.

Skin looks perfected but entirely natural. Foundation does not settle into fine lines and the gentle buffing makes sure everything looks even. If your skin is oily, finish with hint of pressed or loose powder on your forehead, nose and chin. Two minutes and you’re done!

Exfoliating your way to better skin

If beautiful skin is at the heart of the no makeup look, then a great skincare routine needs to be part of it too. I’m sure there will be plenty of posts about skincare in my future. I just love the stuff – pretty bottles, amazing promises, great textures and scents… There’s only one problem: for most products it takes time and patience to see results. I like to say that I have many great qualities. Patience just doesn’t seem to be one of them!

So if you want results and you want them right now, you’re going to love exfoliation! This refers to all the types of products out there that get rid of the dead cells on the outermost layer of skin to give you a brighter and smoother complexion after just one use! Exfoliation can be mechanical – where you use grainy textures, loofahs or any other kind of abrasive – or chemical – where you let fruit enzymes  or acids such as salicylic acid or do the job for you. Both can be gentle or harsh so take the time to find what's right for you. Here are a few of my favorite things!

St. Ives Fresh Skin Invigorating Apricot Scrub – this is a US favorite and best seller. It comes in a decent sized tube or pot, it’s cheap and it does the job. Since it’s a little harsh on the skin (walnut shell is pretty rough) I use it mostly on my chest and back.

Clinique 7 Day Scrub Cream – another award-winning favorite! This one is much gentler thanks to its tiny micro-beads and creamy base. Clinique states that you can wear it every day but I recommend that you space it out to whatever makes sense to you (3x a week worked great for me).

Clarisonic Mia Brush – if there is such a thing as love at first scrub, this would probably be it. It’s incredibly gentle and recommended for all types of skin (even people with rosacea) but it’s very effective and pleasurable to use. Clarisonic states that “Mia cleanses so well that products absorb better, pores appear smaller, and fine lines and wrinkles appear reduced.” Use it with a gentle cleanser like Cetaphil and see your skin get better looking every day. Since it’s not that cheap consider it… an investment! “You’re worth it” and all of that! You can get a demo at Sephora and see what all the hype is about.

These were all different types of mechanical exfoliants. Let’s finish up with a chemical one for a little diversity!

Origins Brighter By Nature Brightening Peel with Fruit Acids – these pads are super easy to use. Just take one out of the pot, run it over your face until you’ve hit all the areas and you’re done! Follow with some moisturizer and be sure to wear SPF during the day. Not only will your face be smooth and clear, you should also see some improvement in your sun spots. Win win!

The important thing to remember about exfoliation is not to overdo it. I don’t currently wear all of these, but have had great results with them in the past. Try one of these for your face and see how it behaves before adding anything else. Start by doing it one or two times a week and increase as needed. Also, discuss what’s best for your skin with your dermatologist – they really do know best!

Eyeliner pencil – intensity 2

For this second eyeliner post (see the first one here) we will focus on more definition and a hint of smokiness. Since we are going for a natural effect, I recommend using colors such as brown, grey or black. This application technique is one of the most traditional for eyeliner and is appropriate for most occasions. My favorite product ever, Lancôme’s Le Crayon Khol in Brun (or Black Coffee), is once again the recommended product.

Make sure that your eye pencil is reasonable sharp, pull at the outer corner of the eye to make eyelid taut and carefully draw a fine line from the inner to the outer corner, as close to the eyelashes as possible. Since this is not liquid eyeliner, you don’t have to do it all in one line and can go bit by bit until you’ve lined the whole upper lid.

Don't worry about getting it just perfect because we are about to smudge it. When you’re done drawing the line, run a fingertip over it until the edges are gone. Go sideways rather than up and down, so the eyeliner stays concentrated at the lash line. You can use a q-tip for more control and to clean up any smudges that have strayed too far.

You should have a smoky lash line right now with no hard edges. For extra credit, take your eyeliner and draw a very fine line right at the base of your lashes. Don’t smudge this last line, which should blend beautifully into your slightly wider smudged eyeliner. Add two coats of lengthening mascara and go show off your gorgeous eyes!

A brighter smile

White teeth have a number of interesting connotations. They are associated with being healthy, wealthy and young, among others. There are also beauty benefits. Whiter teeth also make your skin look less sallow and your lips naturally darker, by contrast. You can see how bright teeth are a great staple for the no makeup look, making everything better before you add even a drop of product.

The good news? Whiter teeth are easier and cheaper to achieve than ever! A few simple steps will make your results even better. 

Select a product like Crest 3D White Advanced Vivid Whitestrips. The new technology is much better than in older strips. The packaging is easy to deal with, the size of the strips is right, and once you put them on they stay on since they have a slightly sticky texture.

Start the process by NOT brushing your teeth. Sounds counterintuitive, right? Apparently, the fluoride in toothpaste can prevent the bleach from doing its job. You can rinse with water or brush without toothpaste if you’d like. I like to floss with a non waxy product as well. Right before you put the strips on you can use a tissue to dry your teeth and help the strips adhere better.

Take the strips out of the pouch and place them on your teeth, covering them as best as possible and avoiding your gums. Since users’ main complaint is that strips don’t whiten between teeth, go over the edges with your nail, pushing the strip onto the space between your teeth.

Avoid eating and drinking while you have the strips on. Wait the recommended amount of time and remove carefully. Feel free to brush your teeth afterwards. Most specialists recommend avoiding dark foods and drinks (berries, coffee, wine) for 24 hours but the Crest website states that it doesn’t make a difference.

Enjoy your new brighter smile and enhance it even more by wearing a stain with a slighty blueish undertone like Covergirl Outlast Lipstain in Plum Pout.

The right makeup for a perfect Drivers License picture

Since I recently had my picture taken for my Drivers License I didn’t think I had to worry when I ran to the DMV this morning to update some information. Well… I learned two important lessons:

1. Always be prepared (I’ve known that one for a while but forgot it this morning
2. DMV’s always take a new picture if you update your license in person at the office

Aaaaaarrrggghhh! My last picture was cute! Today my hair was wet in a pony tail and the only thing I had on my face was sunscreen! I’ll need to see the real deal to assess how bad it was, but I think there will be a next time real soon. Here’s what I recommend that you do when your turn comes.

After moisturizing, apply the level of foundation that is right for your skin right now – since I currently have no blemishes and it’s summer, for me it would’ve been tinted moisturizer. Follow it with concealer. Be sure to get your eyelids and inner corners of the eyes, under eye circles, around your nose and anywhere where you still see a little redness or imperfections.

While I would say that creating beautiful skin is the most important step in the regular no-makeup look, it’s less important for a picture at the DMV because the harsh flash erases a lot of flaws. That said, it also erases your features and shows a disproportionate amount of shine so focus on the next steps!

Add cream blush to the apples of your cheeks and blend. Consider making it a little more noticeable than usual to counteract the flash, which will wash you out.

Smudge brown eyeliner into your top lashes and add as many coats of mascara as you’d like for defined eyes. A little bit of highlighter in the inner corners will help you look awake.

Apply a natural looking lip stain that is darker than your lip shade – this is not the time for beige nudes – and add lip balm or a little neutral gloss if you like shiny lips in a picture.

You should look really great right about now! Let’s finish it off with 2 tricks. First, take a large soft brush and use it to pick up some pressed powder bronzer. Brush it all around the edges of your face – your jaw, ears, around the hairline and a little under the cheekbones. It’s a quick contouring to make you look slimmer and bring attention to the center of your face. Blend with a tissue to make sure there are no hard lines (which would look horrible in your pic!). Then take the same brush, dip it in a little loose powder and go over your t-zone to minimize shine. You need all the help you can get with that flash! Consider bringing blotting paper and using it just before your close-up.

Last but not least, consider your choice of outfit. Sometimes the pictures are cut at your neck, but sometimes your top will show. Remember that the background is turquoise blue and avoid any colors that clash. My favorite style remains a classic shape, like a button down or a top that shows my collarbone, like a boatneck cut, in a bright white.

The scoop neck bejeweled beige t-shirt I was wearing today, not so much… *sigh*

One product to replace them all!

Many years ago, when I first tried self-tanner on my face, I was very careful. I made sure to use small quantities, rub it in at length and brush my nails after I was done with the application. After a few days of using it I was really happy with the results – the color was very natural and I looked healthy. I was proud of my cheat until a friend pointed out a small detail I had missed. There was a very clear demarcation line in the area where my jaw met my earlobe… I was mortified.

When you think of it, it was only natural... Never do I extend my face moisturizer onto my ears! Try it for yourself and see where your fingers go… Well, with tanner, you gotta! When you are done rubbing it in, work out the leftover from your fingers on your earlobes and around the ear. Now that you know this little trick, you’re ready to look your best.

Nobody does self tanners like Clarins – it’s like they have a magical formula that no one else’s heard of! Their Radiance-Plus Golden GlowCream-Gel is no exception. I recommend smoothing one pump of this product to your skin every night, and switch to every other night once the color is right. I swear you’ll end up wearing less makeup and fewer products when you wake up the next morning.

Curled lashes

Even though eyelash curlers always strike me as torture device, there’s no denying the effect of a good curl. Eyelashes look longer and more noticeable, which in turn makes eyes look bigger and more awake. So… find a way to deal with it, think happy thoughts of gorgeous lashes and do it.

If that pep talk didn’t work, as it hasn’t for me, consider this messy but effective little trick. Get something to use as a block – a spoon, a credit card or a folded tissue – and place it on the upper lid. Keep it there through the whole process. Apply your favorite mascara, wait a couple of seconds, then place a finger at the root of your lashes. Try to bend your lashes upward, against the folded tissue and keep it there for a little bit until it starts to dry.

Enjoy your curled lashes without worrying about pinched lids (just writing that makes me think “ouch!”).

No makeup nails

Some girls spend hours getting their nails done and an equal amount of time worrying about not chipping them. That type of high maintenance beauty is the opposite of the breezy, natural attitude we’re going for.

Still, well cared for nails remain an important part of looking polished. How else can you achieve beautiful nails that are low maintenance? The magical word is buffer. This tool will rid your nails of ridges and make them shine.

Choose a buffer with four sides at most – you don’t need more than that. Use the rougher side to buff the nail in a circular motion. Limit it to two or three circles at most and go through all ten nails. Once you’re done with face one of the buffer, use a dry washcloth to clean of your nails and inspect them. If you still see some pronounced ridges, go over them again. If not, progress to face two and repeat the circular motion. Keep going until the last step, which should feel rubbery and smooth. That guarantees that your smooth nails turn very shiny, almost has if you had a coat of clear polish on.

Since the rougher side of the buffer removes the top layer from your nails, use it only as needed, or on new growth near the base. To maintain the high levels of shine, buff with the smoother side as often as you like. You will never need to worry about a chipped manicure again!

The most underrated blending tool ever!

I need to address my love of tissues. They’re cheap, I always have them around and they do a wonderful job of blending in a pinch. Just do your face makeup like you would normally do – foundation, blush, bronzer – and then use a tissue to gently buff the edges. Concentrate on the jaw line and the cheeks.

And that’s it! Gone are any demarcation lines on your jaw or streaks from a too loaded blush brush. Your makeup is now perfectly natural.